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Planning to visit Jamaica? Would you like to travel to a less visited area? Here's some info about one of the island's relatively untouristed parish and its main town. It's extracted from the Third Edition of Jamaica: A Visitor's Guide by  Harry S. Pariser.  Copyright 1995, Hunter Publishing. All rights reserved.


Manchester Parish and Mandeville

One of the nicest areas of Jamaica, 339 sq. mi. (833 sq. km),   Manchester Parish's cool hills and low-key populace makes for a refreshing change from the heat and hustle of the coasts.  In terms of the island's history, Manchester is comparatively young. An influx of coffee  growers, who petitioned the government, led to the splitting off of Manchester as a separate parish in 1814.  Prior to the introduction of coffee, the area had been largely wilderness and was divided between Vere, Clarendon, and St. Elizabeth parishes.  It was named after the governor of the time, the Duke of Manchester who served as governor from 1808-27.  In contrast to the sugar producing areas, the plantation system was never instituted here, and the emancipated slaves became small farmers. Today it produces the bulk of the nation's Irish potato crop.  As any visitor will soon detect, bauxite is also a major industry. In addition to toxic red lakes, you'll spot signs such as "Bauxite returned to Housing" and "Bauxite Returned to Agriculture." You'll also see cattle farms, citrus groves, and even bananas.  Manchester's  chief town is Mandeville, and you should base yourself here or in Christiana.

Mandeville

A fairly large, extremely scattered town (pop. 34,000), this is the capital of Manchester Parish, and the fifth largest city or town.  Although Mandeville has long been compared to an English country town, its Continental character is swiftly fading as it becomes a carbon copy of American suburbia with shopping centers and Kentucky Fried Chicken.  The area surrounding the Manchester Club, which has the island's oldest golf course, still retains a distinctly English feeling.  Although at the time of its establishment in 1814 it was a playground for landed European gentry, expatriates today are predominantly Americans working in the bauxite industry, which has brought relative prosperity to this area.  Mandeville is definitely a place to beat the heat; the temperature here ranges from the 60s during the winter to the 70s during the summer.  To really experience the town in all its radiance, get out in the early morning and take in the special qualities of the sunlight.  The area's most famous product is the ortanique.   Developed here about 1920 by C. P. Jackson, the name for this seedless, extremely juicy fruit was coined by combining the words "orange, tangerine and unique."

GETTING THERE AND AROUND: Mandeville is most easily reached by bus or minibus from Kingston (via Spanish Town) or from Black River.  There's no local bus system so you'll either have to walk or bargain with the drivers of shared taxis. car rentals:  A number of car rental agencies are based here.  These include Candi Car Rental (tel. [phone], Hertz (tel. [phone]), Moon Glow (tel. [phone]) and Delojay Car Rental (tel. [phone]).

SIGHTS: All of the major streets slope up to Mandeville Square where the park, market, courthouse  and rectory are located.  Surrounded by a sea of modernity, the anachronistic courthouse was built with limestone blocks cut by slaves.  Completed around 1820, the design underwent many modifications before it was finished. Be sure to note the "no urinating" sign. Standing to the left of the courthouse, what was once Mandeville's rectory is still the oldest house in town.  Rented out as a tavern, it was later used as a guest house before being converted to a private residence.  Also on the central green, Manchester Parish Church opened its doors in 1820.  Mandeville Hotel, an old landmark on Hotel St, was originally a barracks for English troops before being converted to a hotel during the 1890s.  It has long been a place of retirement for many expatriate British.
    Mrs. Stephenson's Garden: This sweet lady has been cultivating her garden for nearly two decades now.  Carmen grows anthuriums, ortanique, citrus, and orchids, and her horticultural products generally take the bulk of the awards at the annual horticultural fair.  A small donation is requested.  The garden is off New Green Rd. on the way to Winston Jones Highway.
    Bammy Factory: This is run out of Clem Bloomfield's home.  The manufacture of these cassava cakes was learned from the Indians.  It's an intricate process of grinding, pressing, roasting, and scraping.  The cakes, of course, form half the ingredients of the traditional dish "fish and bammy." He's located off Greenvale Rd. between West Rd. and Winston Jones highway.  Check with the  Astra for current tour availability.
    Marshall's Pen: This 18th C. great house is set inside a 300-acre cattle farm.  Purchased by Arthur Sutton in 1939, it is also a preserve for birds.  While the affable Suttons offer tours of their house and opportunities for birdwatching on the grounds, their main business is rearing cattle.  They care for Red Poll calves until they are 10 months old and then sell them; their calves are so popular that there is a three-year waiting period.  The Suttons live in the main house, once the center of a coffee plantation, and have endeavored to furnish it appropriately.  The charge for tours is US$10 pp. (tel. [phone]).  Birdwatching tours of the estate (98 species reported seen) and to the Cockpit Country are also available but must be arranged in advance.
    Cecil Charleton's Mansion: Manchester Green Farms and Stables, located 2.5 km south of town atop Huntingdon Summit, appears from the distance to be a gigantic futuristic green Chinese pagoda-almost as if a spacecraft full of Oriental aliens had landed on top of the hill. Horses and cows graze on the green, fenced-in pastures along the way up to this octagonal mansion owned by Mandeville's mayor and former sno-cone salesman CeciI Charleton.  Outside, bird cages containing cockatoos and other tropical exotics hang near a fountain built in the shape of a map of Jamaica and a walkway representing the Jamaican flag.  An outdoor swimming pool flows under the walls into the living room where it transforms into a small pond.  Get permission to view the estate by calling 962-2247/2493.
    others: Another place to visit is the small High Mountain Coffee Factory (tel. [phone])  The coffee factory is located up the street from the former Williamsfield train depot.  As they only roast the beans, there isn't much to see.  West Indies College's Westco Foods Factory offers tours on request to see how they make Banana Plus Cereal, cornflakes, brown wheat bread, and other health foods. Its sponsor is West Indies College, a small Seventh Day Adventist institution whose student body comes from 38 nations. Arrangements for visiting both can be made through the Astra's Visitor Information Centre.


Mandeville Practicalities

ACCOMMODATIONS: The Mandeville Hotel (tel. [phone], fax [phone]; Box 78; Mandeville at 4 Hotel St., is a local institution run in style by the affable McIntyre clan, and the  McIntyres have been striving diligently to upgrade facilities and service.  There are 60 double rooms and some self-contained units available.  Set off from the road, it's in its own special, peaceful world--one which is just a matter of minutes from the center of action.  In addition to a pool, there's a fine restaurant and bar.  "Golden agers" are particularly welcome. Complimentary features include early morning coffee or tea and a free welcome drink at the bar.  Rates are from US$65 (plus tax and 10% service) on up to US$200.
    Located outside of the town's core at 62 Ward Avenue, The Astra (tel. [phone], fax [phone]; Box 60, Mandeville) is managed by Diana McIntyre-Pike. It has a functional simplicity which gives it a personal grace.  Originally a 10-room nursing home, it was converted by Mr. and Mrs. Conway McIntyre into a hotel catering to expatriates at work in the bauxite industry.  There are two bars: one inside and one poolside.  Imbibe your complimentary "welcome drink" at either.  A "Revival Room" next to the pool is perfect for meetings.  Rates run from around US$65-$150 including tax and full breakfast.
    Diana McIntyre has a special concept, one unfortunately all too rare in the impersonal, unimaginative world of Jamaican tourism.  Her "Community Tourism" involves bringing the local citizens into contact with visitors.  This affords visitors the opportunity to experience life as the locals live it and the chance for Jamaicans to meet North Americans and Europeans at first hand and not only via the boob tube.  She hopes to prevent the type of unplanned development that has marred both Negril and the North Coast.  In conjunction with this effort, Diana and family invite locals and high school students into their hotels so that they can understand what the hotel business and tourism is all about.  In order to make her visitors feel right at home in the community, she takes them around and about for a complimentary tour.  Ask Diana about her  private home bed and breakfast program.  Visitors pay around US$40 for a single or US$50 for a double room.  She can also arrange a rental car which will be immediately available upon arrival.
    apartments:  The Golf View Apartment (tel. [phone]) is at 5 1/2 Caledonia Rd.
    budget accommodations: Try the Rodan Guest House (tel. [phone]), Wesley Rd., the Hillside Guest House (tel. [phone]),  the five-room Kariba (tel. [phone]; Box 482, Mandeville), 39 New Green Rd. (around US$35 s or d),  the Mayfair Guest House (tel. [phone]), 11 Newleigh Rd., the International Chinese Hotel (tel. [phone]) at 17 Manchester Rd., or the Traveler's Rest Bed and Breakfast outside of town.
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Countrystyle
Founded by Diana McIntyre-Pike, Countrystyle Limited markets "Community Tourism," the concept of involving visitors in the community life. Headquartered at the Asta Country Inn, Countrystyle specializes in the area around Mandeville and the South Coast.  Programmes include bed and breakfast (see above), special interest tours and travel, a community guide program (who will introduce visitors to the area), a community tourism village program (which assists in developing business plans), skills training, and communications planning and marketing.  For more information, call 962-3725, fax [phone], or write  Box 60, Mandeville.
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DINING OUT: The best hotel dining is to be found at the Mandeville Hotel and the Astra, which has the Country Fresh Restaurant.  Both of these are renowned for service and hospitality.
    low-budget dining: Open from 8-4 Mon. to Thurs. and 8-2 on Fri., a vegetarian restaurant run by the Seventh Day Adventists offers dishes including soy steak, rice and peas, and green pea stew, as well as juices, Irish moss, soy milk, plantain tarts, fruit punch, orange juice, salads. It's behind the church in the town center. Popular with locals, the inexpensive Hot Pot Restaurant parallels Hotel St. Miss Bennett's Fish Hut at 35 Caledonia Plaza has breakfast froin US$2 and charges US$3-5 for fish dishes.  A good value for the atmosphere is the Pot Pourri Restaurant at Caledonia Plaza.  Its dishes run the gamut from hotdogs to bacon & eggs, from curried goat to sweet and sour pork.  For Chinese food, the International Chinese Restaurant (tel. [phone]), 117 Manchester Rd.,  is reasonable as are the Bamboo Village (tel. [phone]), 35 Ward Ave.(which serves dishes such as "crystal king prawns" and "seafood war-bar") and The Feeding Tree. For baked goods try the Sunshine Bakery housed next to the Yokohama Betting Shop on Manchester Rd. Ice cream is served at Krispy Kones near the Odeon.  For baked goods, Lynn's Bakery is on Ward Avenue.
    food shopping:  Marzouca╒s Deli in Mandeville Plaza, has pickled, sinful-tasting Satan's Sauce and Pepperwind Pepper Jelly, used for seasoning meat.  Also available are dulce (guava cheese) and guava liqueur.  For grocery shopping try Super Plus at 2 Park Crescent and 41 Manchester Rd.,  Bravo Enterprises at 7B Caledonia Rd., Phildon Serve All at 5 Manchester Rd., Landem Discount at 41 Manchester Rd., Mandeville Cash 'N Carry at Ward Plaza, 35 Ward Ave., and Urvill's Shop'N Save at 32 Manchester Rd. The Basic Mini Mart stands next to the Odeon Theatre.

ENTERTAINMENT: The Astra has live music on occasion. Discos in the same area include Coney Island and Tracks in Mandeville Plaza.  Zeex is out at Caledonia Plaza. Rocksteady Nightclub is at Manchester Shopping Centre. Currently the hottest spot in the area is Jim's HQ at Gutters in St. Elizabeth. It's popular for dancing especially on Fri. and Sat.

SHOPPING: Located behind Manchester Shopping Centre, the SWA Craft Centre (tel. [phone]) offers employment to young unemployed women who lack skills.  After they are trained, they can go on to work for themselves.  Here, embroidery work, crochet, toys, clothing, and baked goods are for sale.  These not only make good souvenirs, they put money where it's needed.  Check out their line of cute Rastafarian dolls.  Mandeville's extremely colorful market is set off to one side of Mandeville Square, housed in a yellow building.  Squatting higglers flow out the doors onto the sloping driveway along the entrance where they sell yams, green peppers, cassava, white turnips, oranges, green bananas, ginger, beans and sugarcane.  Also outside there's usually a revivalist group present with a lady, wearing a white turban, reading from the Bible and holding a white flag.  Inside, the meat market has individually apportioned stalls with cow and goat heads for sale.  Fishes of all sizes, shapes and colors are sold from tin washing pans.

SERVICES AND INFORMATION: There is no longer a tourist office in Mandeville. An excellent source for information is Diana McIntyre-Pike at the Astra Country Inn (tel [phone]). The best place to change money is at the Cambio in the supermarket  in the center of town.There are two health clubs: the Total Body Centre (tel. [phone]) and the New Bodies Health Club (tel. [phone]).  Drugstores include Bennett's at 25 Main St.; Bravo Enterprises, 7B Caledonia Rd.; Hargreaves, 32 Hargreaves Ave.; Houghton's, 18 West Park Crescent; Grove Court in Grove Court Shopping Centre; and Fontana in Manchester Plaza Shopping Centre.  Bookland is at Manchester Shopping Centre.  In case you would like to be helped by the relative of a leading luminary, you can visit Seaga's sister at her Global Travel in Manchester Shopping Centre.

SPORTS: Over 120 years old, the Manchester Club is the oldest private club in the Caribbean.  Its facilities include billiards, tennis and golf; the 9 hole course is Jamaica's oldest.  Facilities are available to guests of the Astra and Mandeville hotels.  John S. Nightingale (tel. [phone]), 13 Perth Rd, offers horseback rides--a perfect thing to do in Mandeville!

    This is just a taste of what you can do in the area around Mandeville. For more information on the area surrounding Mandeville as well as comprehensive coverage of the rest of Jamaica, you may purchase TThird Edition of Jamaica: A Visitor's Guide ($14.95; IBSN 1-55650-703-8) which is available at your local bookstore. (Request them to order it from Hunter or from Ingram if it is not in stock).
    Copies of Jamaica: A Visitor's Guide may also be ordered directly from Harry S. Pariser (1327 9th Av., No. 1, San Francisco, CA  94122) at the above address for US$20 (check or money order); copies are shipped via priority mail. Please mark ╥BOOK ORDER╙ on the envelope.
    Other books by Harry S. Pariser include the  The Adventure Guide to the Dominican Republic, (Second Edition) $14.95; The Adventure Guide to Costa Rica, (Third Edition: Feb. 1996) $15.95 ("best-balanced, most comprehensive guide"--Lan Sluder, Tico Times); The Adventure Guide to the Virgin Islands (Third Edition) $14.95; The Adventure Guide to Puerto Rico, (Second Edition) $14.95; and the Adventure Guide to Barbados (Second Edition:  October 1995).
    All are available from Hunter Publishing, 300 Raritan Parkway, Edison, NJ 08818.  Call (908-225-1900) or fax [phone]). Also distributed nationwide by Ingram.  For more information contact Harry S. Pariser at [phone] or send e-mail to [e-mail]